Process (Modern Salon), Fall 2017

Fixing A Bad Ombre When we fix a bad ombre we are going to make it a more beautiful ombre Minardi says Well get it back to natural or refine it by putting more champagne ivory or caramel blonde into white ends Minardi uses a lightener and a demi cream color for low lighting and finishes with a liquid acidic demi for glazing She also recommends using long artistic foil and long butterfly clips to avoid folding hair But first hair must be healthy Once a steak is well done you cant make it medium rare she says The best thing to do with hair that is damaged is cut it off Then softly re highlight pieces that have not been damaged and glaze hair After you must deeply condition at the salon and at home When hair is very long to the mid back it can get burnt over bleached The more we cut off the more it will stop shredding vertically Thick denser hair is a lot stronger and might withstand more but lightener will work faster on thinner hair which is why its key to watch foils checking every 10 minutes Swinney says he often utilizes the mistake when trying to soften a harsh line from a bad ombre Id backcomb the whole head and work on softening that whole line he says Typically if youre dealing with a bad ombre youre dealing with a faulty glaze or youve got a harsh line If hair is not healthy at all and you have a spotty ombre then I mix in a little Trauma Treatment into my lightener which will help the bond structure as Im lightening After lightening and applying color he glazes usually down a level or two Application can be tedious and it often takes multiple appointments to fix hair this damaged Swinney says I tell clients you can cook chicken in a microwave and eat it but it tastes better on the grill theres no fast fix if hair is a mess he says You have to have multiple appointments to fix it After the service Swinney finishes with Lanza Keratin Healing Oil Emergency Service a 10 minute service to keep hair healthy and shiny Its kind of like putting scaffolding in the bonds of hair to rebuild and give strength again he says SERVICE STATS AT HOME MAINTENANCE Im a firm believer in a balance shampoo Swinney says A lot of clients use moisture shampoos but an overuse of moisture has an adverse effect and makes hair more brittle I prefer a strengthening shampoo I also send them home with a small bottle of leave in conditioner to use on mid shaft to ends the first two weeks and a healing oil to protect from heat styling APPOINTMENTS NEEDED TO ACHIEVE DESIRED RESULT If the hair is in great shape and the colorist is adept it can be done in one shot Minardi says But a couple of appointments might be necessary Minardi takes a grown out over processed ombre to a beautiful copper balayage Its case specific Swinney says Typically it takes two appointments to get it exactly where they want The first time it looks good the second time great and the third appointment is maintenance TIPS ON PRICING Whatever you charge for a full head of highlighting and glaze in the minimum you should charge for an ombre Minardi says Its corrective color so take the price of a full head of highlights and add 25 FREQUENCY OF VISITS TO MAINTAIN THIS LOOK When an ombre is done well it grows out beautifully Clients should only have to come in every eight to 10 weeks possibly even 12 weeks If its done correctly maintenance more often than that is not necessary modernsalon com PROCESS 39