Process (Modern Salon), Fall 2017

SHOULD YOU STRAND TEST Strand testing can be an excellent way to determine the health and integrity of hair Testing a small hidden portion of hair before coloring all over shows how the color will take to the hair When I need to conduct a strand test I choose a 1 inch by 1 inch strand from the nape area and use a lower developer in 10 20 volume Diersen says I saturate the hair with lightener and watch it closely as it develops At this point Im looking for banding and elasticity retention If the hair holds up strong I select my final formulation and volume to achieve the desired result safely Zach Mesquit a blonding expert who works with Schwarzkopf Professional agrees Having any existing color makes a difference he says If they do have existing color it can be unpredictable I have to not promise anything Everyone is always different Many expert colorists who have been in the business for years and know their clients color history might not do a strand test before coloring These colorists analyze the strength and integrity of the hair during their consultation process often just by looking at and feeling the hair FORMULATION AND APPLICATION Some colorists recommend using products that contain the necessary oils and proteins that hair might need throughout the coloring process Bond builders can be useful if you are concerned about breakage during the coloring process The oils within these bond builders can create a safer way for hair to take on brighter lighter shades De Souza recommends using coloring products that contain bond builder elements It cuts back on the amount of products needed on the clients hair and the chemicals can be less damaging when theyre built into the color itself she says When it comes to application Mesquit says saturation is the most important aspect If you have the hair very saturated it wont dry out or form dry spots he says If theres a dry spot youll have a dark spot Many colorists prefer to use small precise brushes to apply color This helps with exact product application It might take longer to use smaller brushes in smaller sections but patience pays off the better your approach the better the end result Work smart not hard Diersen says Take a couple of minutes longer to apply color thoroughly by taking small sections to ensure proper saturation than to discover later an unsightly spot KEEPING UP WITH THE BLONDES Before your client leaves the salon remind her about the upkeep routine discussed during the consultation Platinum shades require the most salon maintenance for more subtle shades in the blonde spectrum return time can vary The preservation of blonde hair really comes down to utilizing the right products at home in between salon appointments Ramirez says After making sure hair is properly conditioned This demonstrates this physical chemistry taking place when lightening hair using Schwarzkopf Professionals BlondMe which can lift up to nine levels in a single application Photo Schwarzkopf Professional Work smart not hard Its better to take a couple of minutes longer to apply color thoroughly by taking small sections to ensure proper saturation than to discover later an unsightly spot CYNTHIA DIERSEN CONTINUED modernsalon com PROCESS 43